There are no Chinese restaurants left in Chinatown. Well, that’s not entirely true: there are few strongholds left on H Street. But by and large, the delicious Sunday dim sum eateries of my childhood have been replaced by Fuddruckers and Häagen-Dazs—all with bilingual store fronts though, to keep up appearances. So for top Chinese fare, you’ll most likely have to head to the ‘burbs of neighboring Maryland and Virginia, home to large Chinese-American communities. We’ll begin in Rockville (aka Wokville)…
BOB’S 88 SHABU SHABU 316 N. Washington Street Rockville, MD 20850 (301) 294-5888
Hours:
Sun–Thur: 11am–1am Fri–Sat 11am–1am
First, let’s get one thing clear: we’re talking about Bob’s 88, not Bob’s 66. Yes, across the street from each other are two Bob’s Chinese restaurants—both quite delicious. Bob’s 88 Shabu Shabu, however, specializes in Taiwanese hot pot. For those who have not had the pleasure, it’s a bit like Chinese fondue—but instead of melted cheese, diners have a simmering broth in which they can cook and eat just about anything, from cabbage to pig blood. Each diner has his own burner and pot in front of him, and all orders come with a generous plate of fish balls, shrimp cakes, mushrooms, noodles, tofu, onions, etc. Then you tack on whatever else: beef, lamb, squid, duck feet, whatever. You throw it into the broth and let it simmer, then fish it out and eat it with a dipping sauce—which you get to fix for yourself from a selection of chili sauce, vinegar, soy sauce, chopped leeks, garlic, fish sauce, Chinese barbeque sauce, etc. It’s a lot of food for your money, and even more fun. It’s only a matter of time before Bob’s 88 becomes one of the most popular restaurants around and all of DC gets hooked on hot pot.
Estimated cost per person: $15–20
FULL KEE 509 H Street NW Washington, DC 20001 (202) 371-2233
Hours:
Mon–Sun: 11am–2am
Full Kee is actually in Chinatown. Holding its ground on the 500 block of H Street, this Chinese eatery is one you can count on. Its prices are extremely low, and you can eat well without paying for it (so to speak). The appearance of the dining room is hardly high-class, but if you concentrate on the food rather than the décor, you should survive. Full Kee offers some wonderful traditional Cantonese dishes, but is best known for its soups and dumplings. Its wonton noodle soup—and at 2am no less—simply can’t be beat. The chef’s specials’ section of the menu is also full of seafood, and many of the fish entrées are worth trying. Come see why it’s still standing proud.
Estimated cost per person: $15–20
EAT FIRST 609 H Street NW Washington, DC 20001 202-289-1703
Hours:
Sun–Thur: 11am–2am Fri–Sat: 11am–4am
Eat First is another Chinatown restaurant to survive the construction of the Verizon Center and ensuing gentrification. The menu here is very affordable, and I often wonder if they keep prices down by eschewing decoration altogether. Regardless, in addition to all the must-haves on a Chinese restaurant’s menu, there are also a number of selections for the adventurous: pig’s skin, sautéed oysters, and plenty of frog. Additions to the printed menu can be found on makeshift signs on the walls, and they come recommended. And if it’s 4am on Friday night and you don’t want to flirt with possibility anymore, you can count on the shrimp cake with Chinese broccoli to delight your taste buds.
Estimated cost per person: $15–20
TONY CHENG’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT AND MONGOLIAN BARBECUE 621 H Street NW Washington, DC 20001 202-371-8669
Hours:
Sun–Thur: 11am–11pm Fri–Sat: 11am–12am
It’s two for one at this Chinatown address: downstairs it’s Mongolian barbecue and upstairs it’s a seafood restaurant, both Tony Cheng’s. Downstairs, choose your ingredients and have the chef stir-fry it up on a large grill. It’s all-you-can-eat, and experimenting with different combinations can be a fun way to dine. You can also enjoy hot pot here, which is both interactive and delicious as well. Upstairs, giant tanks of Dungeness crabs, lobsters, etc. greet you. The seafood menu is lengthy, and a delightful dim sum is served every day at lunch. Pick and choose from the wandering carts of dumplings and delicacies. In short, Tony Cheng’s offers a little something for everyone, which is perhaps why he has been so successful these past 20 years.
Estimated cost per person: $15–25
CITY LIGHTS OF CHINA 1731 Connecticut Avenue NW Washington, DC 20009 (202) 265-6688
A Dupont Circle favorite for the past 20 years, City Lights of China offers great dine-in and take-out. Its menu is comprehensive, and also offers some noteworthy Szechuan and Cantonese specialties. A quick look down the menu reveals that you can feast on a budget here, and if you’re not looking to really treat yourself, order the Peking duck. When they present you with those dozen floury pancakes, scallions, and delicious plum sauce, you won’t be disappointed. Servers carve the duck at your table, and it is prepared just so, with tender meat and a crispy, crackling skin. Delicious!
Estimated cost per person: $15–25
MEIWAH 1200 New Hampshire Avenue NW Washington, DC 20036 (202) 833-2888
Larry La was once the man behind City Lights of China. But he has since moved on and invested himself in a new and fabulous restaurant, Meiwah. With a glamorous glass front and two floors of immaculate décor, Meiwah is the classy (and conservative) Chinese restaurant that makes it to the top of every reviewer’s list. Unlike so many of the hole in the walls serving homemade treats, Meiwah greets diners with black lacquer tables, traditional artwork, and high ceilings with plenty of room to breathe. Its crispy Cornish hen appetizer and Hunan-style crispy whole fish main dish have also impressed a number of celebrities, ranging from Alan Greenspan to Don King. For those who can’t make it downtown, an equally wonderful second location can be found in Chevy Chase, MD.
Joe’s Noodle House is for those who like it hot. Inconspicuously situated in a 355 strip mall, this Wokville hotspot is home to a variety of noodles: wide chewy ones, thin vermicelli, clear, opaque, flat, fat. The eatery specializes in spicy Szechuan cooking, and whereas a chili icon on the menu means hot & spicy, an extra star means numbing. (Their words, not mine.) You must have an extraordinary appetite in order to spend more than $20 here, as prices on the extensive menu are, frankly, dirt cheap. Indulge in a spicy duck stew or salty and crispy shrimp (head and tail on, of course), and you won’t even make a dent in your bank account. Joe’s Noodle House is always a deal, but if for some reason you grow tired of the noodles, come on weekend mornings for a surprisingly delicious dim sum.
Estimated cost per person: $10
YUAN FU VEGETARIAN 798 Rockville Pike Rockville, MD 20852 301-762-5937
Hours:
Mon–Thur: 11am–10pm Fri–Sat: 11am–10:30pm
Another find in one of Rockville Pike’s countless strip malls, Yuan Fu Vegetarian stands out from the rest with its, well, lack of meat. And a distinct presence of gluten! Also, tofu and seaweed. But rather than only serving its veggies straight, Yuan Fu opts to offer Chinese-American favorites—like sesame chicken or crispy beef—in vegetarian- and vegan-friendly forms. Soybean protein becomes chicken and white yams morph into shrimps. The result is surprisingly tasty, and Yuan Fu has been known to attract more than a few carnivores. The dining room is modest but bright and pleasant, and the service is friendly. And with prices like these, it’s definitely worth the Metro ride out on the Red Line.
Estimated cost per person: $10
HOLLYWOOD EAST CAFÉ 2312 Price Avenue Wheaton, MD 20902 301-942-8282
Hours:
Sun–Thur: 11am–11pm Fri–Sat: 11am–12am
Another Montgomery County favorite, Hollywood East Café is a bustling Cantonese restaurant in suburban Wheaton. It’s had such success that a second location—Hollywood East Café on the Boulevard—was opened around the corner on University. Although both locations are similar in their menus and atmosphere, the Café on the Boulevard does serve an excellent dim sum as well. But the original location, with its colorful mural of the Hong Kong harbor, still holds its own. If you can’t find anything that strikes your fancy on this phonebook-thick menu, then you’re the world’s pickiest eater. And if you find the 200+ options a bit overwhelming, opt for one of the daily specials. From steamed eggplant to firecracker shrimp, they’re guaranteed to move beyond your standard General Tso’s chicken.
Estimated cost per person: $15–20
PEKING GOURMET INN 6029 Leesburg Pike Falls Church, VA 22041 703-671-8088
Hours:
Sun–Thur: 11am¬–10:30pm Fri–Sat: 11am–12am
Peking Gourmet Inn is popular with Republicans—or so owner Eddie Tsui would have you believe with his collection of photos with regulars Bush Sr., George W., and Colin Powell. Since it opened its doors in 1978 though, Peking Gourmet Inn has attracted foodies of all political persuasions with its dressed-up but familiar menu. The restaurant specializes in Northern Chinese cuisine, and Peking Duck is the signature dish. The duck is wheeled out and carved by your table, then served up with all the traditional trimmings. A great Chinese restaurant for a special occasion, diners are advised to either come early/late or make a reservation, as Peking Gourmet Inn is a crowd-pleaser that fills up fast.