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Vij's
The Top List of Great Restaurants - Vancouver, B.C.
In Vancouver you can find just about any kind of food in the world.
by Connie Adams
What do you think of when you envision a city of over half a million people in a region of two million? "I've got it! Let's open a restaurant!" Naturally. There are literally thousands of restaurants in Vancouver and environs and the beauty of it all is that it's a culturally diverse area. Consequently, you can find just about any kind of food in the world almost at your doorstep - if you live there. If you don't, it's only about a three-hour drive from Seattle, Washington, and it's equidistant by air from London or Tokyo. Good to know, you're thinking. Naturally, with all these choices it's a tough call on what are truly the top ten restaurants. As with many tough projects, the best thing to do is break it down into small steps. Try the ten restaurants below, then another ten, and then another ten. It's really the only way you'll ever know.
VIJ'S
1480 W 11th Avenue, Vancouver, B.C. V6H 1M6
(604) 736-6664
Hours: (Sun-Sat) 5:30 pm-10 pm
Vij's is living proof that when it comes to atmosphere, simple is just as effective as "major interior design." This is not to say owners Vikram and Neeru didn't put a lot of thought into the look of the restaurant. They've created a simple yet elegant and comfortable place to enjoy some truly wonderful food. Outside the restaurant, a square concrete pond holds plants and floating candles. A lovely wood temple door from Bombay, about 600 years old, greets customers just inside the working front door. Plain wood tables and wicker-backed chairs fill the main room; hanging metal lamps have elephant cut-outs. The lounge in back has low tables, ottomans, and pillows stacked on benches. Beer and wine is served; tap handles are carved wood. Even the bathrooms are a study in harmony--candles in wall niches, fresh flowers, and a copper tub for used hand cloths. Manager Karla says the decor changes as much as the menu (3-4 times per year, including the wine list). Husband/owner Vikram has a hotel background and wife/owner Neeru is in charge of the kitchen. They came to Vancouver via Austria and Banff. There are a few rules at the restaurant - one is no reservations, no exceptions. The other is that on the weekends they serve dinner until everyone waiting has been seated. That's often beyond the 10 pm closing time. They also close for two weeks during Christmas and New Years-it makes the New Year even sweeter when the doors open again. Once seated, each guest is greeted with poori, a snack served to kids after school in India. It's potato and caraway seeds, deep-fried. It's all women in the kitchen, and you're grateful to each and every one of them. You find yourself thankful for young jackfruit in cayenne and black cardamom curry, and pan-fried tiger prawns in mild saffron curry. Your gratefulness increases as you taste the entrees-Punjabi saag and paneer with sweet potato crisps and cornmeal chapati, Demerara sugar and tamarind marinated beef tenderloin in blackened cumin seed curry, and wine-marinated lamb popsicles in fenugreek cream curry with turmeric spinach and potatoes. Grief may overwhelm you after the last bite. But then again, you can come back tomorrow.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $25 - $30 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Closed, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Open, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Closed, Christmas-Closed, Boxing Day-Closed, New Years Eve-Closed
C
2-1600 Howe Street, Vancouver, B.C. V6Z 2L9
(604) 681-1164
Hours: (Lunch Mon-Fri) 11:30 am-2:30 pm; (Brunch Sun) 11 am-2:30 pm; (Dinner Sun-Sat) 5:30 pm-11 pm (summer), 10 pm (winter)
Perfectly situated on False Creek, C looks across the water to the Granville Market beneath the Granville Street Bridge, and enjoys a very urban environment surrounded as it is by apartments and condos (it's in a condo building itself). It doesn't get much better on a warm summer evening than sitting at a patio table watching yachts bob as the sun goes down. Did I mention the truly excellent Cosmopolitans they make? Heat lamps make the summer last just a little bit longer. Large glass windows make the patio and interior tables seem all of one room. The reception desk just inside the front door is a large rock from Coal Harbor (it's best not to ask how it got there; think "dark of night"). Around to the left is a leaning bar-rubberized treads on gas/brake-like pedals for your feet and a pole with a rounded pad for your back. It's a must to try out and amazingly comfortable, at least for the short stay. Some people do have wine and appetizers at the leaning bar, but mostly it's a waiting area. An upstairs room serves as another dining area, but also as a private room for parties. Unfortunately, there's no view from that balcony, but you do get a real feel for the interesting interior design. Two large doors fill one wall; both painted white and looking quite like barn doors. Hallway sconces near cedar-shingled bathroom doors look like campfire logs. Described as "KOA 2000," you wouldn't think it would work with the rest of the more marine-like decor-chairs meant to imply buoys-and the very modern look downstairs. Like the reception rock, perhaps it's best not to ask about the giant "X" and "O" on the wall of the main dining area. The "O" is fur-lined and there are brightly colored shapes beneath it and above the "X." Ron Douglas, an excellent waiter and undoubtedly teller of tall tales, talks of the colored shapes being fish that have jumped into the pot to be cooked (even he didn't buy this story). Dominic Smith, the designer, surely has an explanation. For a more intimate event, try the wine room upstairs. It seats about 16 and is quite cozy. Chef Robert Clark has been at C for three years. His menu is innovative and the food is a sight to behold as well as being a treat for the taste buds. An entire page of the menu is dedicated to caviar, and there are also cold bar items like oysters, Albacore tuna sashimi, and Nova Scotia lobster tail sashimi. Appetizers entice with items like oatmeal crusted halibut with sweet pea puree and a citrus cream; birch syrup glazed Pacific sardines with caramelized onion brioche, corned monkfish hash and grainy mustard; and a "taster box" that includes salmon gravlax, ahi tuna tartare, warm lobster salad, and roasted breast of Washington state waterfowl. And we're not even to the main menu yet! That in itself creates a dilemma-go for a starter and a main course or the tasting menu with nine courses. These are the kind of dilemmas life dishes up that are actually enjoyable. Main courses include pecan crusted soft shell crab with apple and crab leg salad, purple potatoes, and ox-eye daisy tartar sauce; grilled octopus bacon-wrapped scallops with black truffles, Yukon gold potato cake, and cognac and dark veal stock reduction (buy this, buy this); and grilled Angus New York steak with baby carrots, pearl onions, cabernet reduction morel soufflé, and green peppercorn sauce (not bad for a token meat dish). Match these up with one of the wines on their award-winning list and you are one happy KOA camper.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $45 - $55 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Closed, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Open, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Open, Christmas-Closed, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
DIVA AT THE MET
645 Howe Street, Vancouver, B.C. V6C 2Y9
(604) 602-7788
Hours: (Mon-Fri) Breakfast 6:30 am-11:30 am; Lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm; Dinner 5:30 pm-9:30 pm; (Sat-Sun) Breakfast 7 am-11 am; Brunch 11 am-2:30 pm; Dinner 5:30 pm-9:30 pm
Thank goodness someone has their priorities straight-the bar is right at the entrance. Bottles are displayed in the windows along the sidewalk, so there's no confusion. No need to wait longer than necessary to jump on a tall chair, take a sip and start relaxing. It's the last time you'll be in a hurry while you're at Diva (unless you're late for the theatre, and that's your fault, but they won't make you feel that way). In addition to the dark polished wood bar, there are round wood tables and brown or black chairs scattered about the room. Beyond the bar (I know, some people really do venture beyond) are two levels for dining. The first contains a piano that is actually seeing some use. It was brought in to complement Vancouver's jazz festival and was so popular they've decided to offer live music on weekends. White and beige table linens set an elegant tone. Each table holds copper salt and pepper mills. An open kitchen can be watched or ignored depending on your mood. The third level has banquettes against the back wall-these tables would seem to be prime people-watching spots, with the entire restaurant laid out below. In addition to breakfast, lunch, dinner, after-theatre and weekend brunch, they also have a "Wine and Noses" dinner series set up for 2001. Prices range from $99 to $130 per person and may include music and dancing. Diva's appetizers do their job-they delight the taste buds and send you eagerly on your way to a main course. Who could stop once they've tasted orange-soy marinated duck confit with spring asparagus and enoki mushrooms or lobster and fine herb salad with spring vegetables and bouillabaisse vinaigrette? Meat eaters will thrill to the taste of grilled tenderloin and peppered lamb New York; or roasted pork chop, fennel grappa sausage and baked grape flat bread. Seafood lovers have many choices including pan-seared halibut cheeks and butter-poached prawns with sweet pea risotto; and Alaskan smoked black cod with herb gnocchi, morel mushrooms, and pea sprout veloute. There's even a "Diva's flight of vegetarian dishes." Diva has been in place five years now and won numerous awards. Chef Andrew Springett represented Canada at the Epcot International Food and Wine Festival, and won the Bocuse d'Or National Selection Competition to be Canada's representative in 2003. More importantly, Diva's Stilton cheesecake was featured in Gourmet magazine's May 2000 issue (sorry, Andrew, but we're talking dessert). Whatever your event (or non-event), Diva is waiting with open arms.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $45 - $55 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Open, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Open, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Open, Christmas-Open, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
VICTORIA CHINESE RESTAURANT
1088 Melville Street, Vancouver, B.C. V6E 3P2
(604) 669-8383
Hours: (Sun-Sat) 10 am-10 pm; (Dim Sum) 10 am-3 pm
Expectations for restaurants in shopping centres aren't always high, but Victoria Chinese makes a mockery of those low expectations. Of course, shopping centres in Vancouver, especially downtown, put most cities to shame as well. Tucked away in the Royal Centre, etched glass windows are the barrier between shopping and eating. Not between the noise of the mall and the quiet of the restaurant because, at least during dim sum, there is no such thing as quiet. The babble of many voices (all happy) fills the pretty room. Dark wood panels accent light walls, mirrors reflect sincerely pleased diners, and metal wall sconces offer muted light. Artwork seems to consist primarily of pictures of the restaurant's food, although from a purely western Caucasian view, pictures of cooked birds with heads on don't really enhance a meal. Fortunately, the food is so good; you're not really looking at the walls much. One wall is enhanced with a rock formation and flowering trees. Dim sum is ordered from a menu and served by the wait staff-no carts here. Quality and flavor are high and the prices are reasonable. Friendly is perhaps not the word to describe the staff, but in their defense it's a very busy place and, who knows, they may have sensed our discomfort with all those pictures of food with heads and not felt sympathetic in any way. Dinners include a popular pork loin, congee, hot and sour soup, won ton soup, Peking duck, steamed B.C. crab, whole abalone in oyster sauce, steamed sea bass, shark fin, a spicy eggplant casserole Szechwan style, minced duck with lettuce wrappers, and braised sea cucumber and duck web casserole.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $25 - $35 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Open, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Open, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Open, Christmas-Open, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
CHARTWELL
791 West Georgia Street, Vancouver, B.C. V6C 2T4
(604) 689-3466
Hours: (Lunch Mon-Fri) 11:30 am-2:30 pm; (Breakfast Sun-Sat) 6:30 am-11:30 am; (Brunch Sun) 11:30 am-4 pm; (Dinner Mon-Sat) 6 pm-10 pm; (Dinner Sun) 4 pm-10 pm
Being located in a Four Seasons hotel, it goes without saying that this is an absolutely elegant restaurant, and attention is paid to every little detail. Not in an obvious way, of course. It simply means your every need has already been thought of and you can sit back, relax and enjoy. Certainly the crowd that inhabits Chartwell is fairly quiet and dignified-this is not where you come to find the wildest party on Saturday night. Things are getting more relaxed, however. On a Sunday afternoon, most customers were wearing khaki pants and windbreakers; so don't feel you have to dress up at all times. Located off the main lobby, the dining area is lovely. A marble table held up by metal statuettes is topped with a huge and brilliant bouquet. Soothing music, dark wood, table linens and artwork consisting mostly of outdoor scenes set a calm tone. If you don't like decision-making, try Chef Douglas Anderson's tasting menu-five courses, and you can choose your own wine or leave that to others as well. Appetizers on the dinner menu range from escargot to a dim sum tasting. Entrees include two vegetarian choices, a New York steak, and seafood options like Maine lobster, olive oil roasted salmon, and seafood pasta. For a special evening, this is one of Vancouver's classics.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $45 - $55 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Open, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Open, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Open, Christmas-Open, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
STAR ANISE
1485 West 12th Avenue, Vancouver, B.C. V6H 1M6
(604) 737-1485
Hours: (Sun-Sat) Lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm; Dinner 5:30 pm-11:30 pm
When an all-time great restaurant falls from favor, it's a terrible disappointment. Yet you root for the underdog, hoping it will come back stronger than ever (unless it's really bad and you just want it to go away). Star Anise has been around for nine years and it was truly a Vancouver highlight. However, over the past two-and-a-half years, there have been three owners. The lack of consistency and vision hurt its reputation, with reason. The good news is that it is rebounding beautifully under the ownership of Ross and Tanya and chef-manship of Randal Martin. Perhaps a bit of a workaholic, Randal cooks every lunch and dinner every day of the week to ensure his menu is carried out to his specifications. Knowing this, you might picture an autocratic crazy man (just a guess), but the truth is he's in his element. He's happiest when it's busy and people are rolling their eyes in delight at each taste. He was classically taught and believes everything should be done just prior to plating, giving the customer the freshest meal possible. A restaurant the size of Star Anise (10-12 tables) makes this possible. He has trained with chefs Robert Sulatky and Scott Kidd, both well known in their field. Headwaiter Ben Isaksen has a background in beer and microbreweries and will shortly be a full-fledged sommelier. They're looking to bring in more international wines and offer wine dinners and food pairings in the fall. At one time, you couldn't eat at Star Anise without standing in line for a while. Randal's vision for the future is a little different-popular, but not trendy. It's not a distant dream with the quality of food being served: seabass is moist and tender, lamb tenderloin with spinach is wrapped in phyllo and finished with mint oil, risottos come with Chanterelle mushrooms or fresh seafood. One of Randal's true talents is with sauces; don't miss any daily specials. Not bad for a former financial consultant from Toronto. The interior of Star Anise is very comfortable and intimate. Red, gold and yellow are primary colors, set off by mainly black and white art by Tanya, who has won numerous awards. At the center of the room is a large birdbath holding a vase with fresh flowers. A small bar (five stools) is just inside the front door; a fine place for a pre-dinner glass of wine as your table is being cleared. You are in for a treat.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $40 - $50 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Open, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Open, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Open, Christmas-Open, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
MONTRI'S THAI RESTAURANT
3629 West Broadway, Vancouver, B.C. V6R 2B8
(604) 738-9888
Hours: (Sun-Sat) 5 pm-11 pm
Happiness with one's life is a wonderful thing to see and certainly wonderful to be around. Montri Rattanaraj is a person who radiates contentment. He is passionate about food and wine and enjoys every aspect of the restaurant--he sweeps in front, he shops every day, he oversees the kitchen and he works the room during dinner chatting with customers and making sure everything is just right. He had the nerve to scare Vancouverites senseless in the early 90s by closing his restaurant to handle family business in Thailand. A collective sigh of relief could be heard throughout the city when he returned and reopened in November of 1995. Oddly, the old phone number hadn't been recycled and he was able to pick up right where he left off. It's probably not odd, it was most likely relegated to the Restaurant Hall of Fame, like a hockey star's jersey number. He's in a new location, and the interior is comfortable and cozy with modernistic- patterned tablecloths in bright colors, starched white napkins and brightly colored artwork on the walls. Despite the brilliant colors, lighting is dim and the feel is of comfortable elegance. He doesn't offer lunch because he wants to focus on each detail at dinner. He adopted the plan of a chef at a French restaurant in Switzerland-shop during the day for fresh ingredients and pour your energy into dinner. He shops at various places around the city-Granville Market for typical Western ingredients, and Chinatown, the only place he can find truly exotic items. Where he shops depends on what he needs. What he produces is wonderful without question. Vancouver Magazine started restaurant awards 12 years ago; he won once before he left for Thailand, and every year (five in a row) since he's been back, for best Thai food in the city. His signature dish is a whole deep-fried fish with a light tamarind-flavored sauce. People also rave about the deboned chicken wings (the meat is ground, mixed with other ingredients and stuffed back into the skin). These dishes may get all the press, but the truth is no place is this lastingly popular because of a few dishes. Montri has managed to offer an entire menu of consistently star-quality dishes, with a wine list to match.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $15 - $25 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Closed, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Closed, Thanksgiving-Closed, Christmas Eve-Open, Christmas-Closed, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
TOJO'S
202-777 West Broadway, Vancouver, B.C. V57 4J7
(604) 872-8050
Hours: (Mon-Sat) 5 pm-10:30 pm
If you didn't know about Tojo's, it would be easy to miss. In the midst of West Broadway where stores and restaurants abound, it is on the second floor of a fairly nondescript building. Obviously, someone is finding it because it's been around since 1987 or 1988. And the people who find it, well, let's just say they find it again and again and again. One Vancouver chef calls Tojo "a god." Maybe a slight exaggeration, but when other chefs look up to you, it's a good thing. The restaurant itself is quite plain-spacious booths with pads on hard benches, and almost cafeteria-like tables. There are six tatami rooms (two for large groups); a few overlook the Broadway action. On the other side of the restaurant is a totally unexpected view of downtown Vancouver (unexpected to anyone without directional sense). In warm weather, a seat on the deck is ideal. There's also a sushi counter if you can't wait for the works of art to be carried to your table. Traditional Japanese methods are used, as well as organic ingredients as often as possible. No instant foods or MSG will be found on the premises. One of the most popular menu items at Tojo's is the Chef's Arrangement. You decide how much you'd like to spend and leave the rest to the chef. It doesn't get much better than this. Other special dishes include halibut cheeks sautéed with seasonal vegetables, deep fried stuffed shiitake mushrooms with sesame, and thinly-sliced beef wrapped around tiger prawns and green onions. Alaskan black cod and rainbow rolls are discussed in reverent tones. Tojo's tends to be a little higher-priced than other Japanese spots, but it's obvious why right after the first bite.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $30 - $60 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Closed, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Closed, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Closed, Christmas-Closed, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
LUMIERE
2551 West Broadway, Vancouver, B.C. V6K 2E9
(604) 739-8185
Hours: (Tues-Sun) 5:30 pm-10:30 pm
Lumiere is one of those places that has hit a nerve-it's on everyone's best restaurant list and if you know what's good for you, you'll reserve in advance. It seems to mean something different to everyone. You'll hear it described as "classic French," "light French," and "Asian influenced." In 1997, Vancouver Magazine voted it best French and best vegetarian. The idea is simple enough-great cuisine is based on quality of ingredients used. They use only the best and freshest items available. Another idea they use is multiple courses and smaller portions. As they say, it "exposes the diner to a wider spectrum of tastes." Not to mention a larger bill. But really, that's neither here nor there when you're dining at a place like Lumiere-you're there for the food experience. They offer several tasting menus-choices are vegetarian, seafood, chef's tasting menu, and their signature menu (yes, that is the most expensive). The vegetarian menu may include a shiitake and oyster mushroom roll, tagliatelli and chanterelles, and grilled asparagus salad. Seared Alaskan scallop with mussels and clams, tomatoes, green peas, capers and a saffron broth; and olive oil-poached, citrus-cured wild sockeye tempt the seafood lover. The chef's tasting menu ranges from rabbit and foie gras, to Fraser Valley duck breast and lobster, to grilled marinated beef tenderloin. The signature menu pulls out all the stops with 12 courses, possibly including cold English pea veloute, duck confit and arugula, and Australian rib eye of lamb. All tasting menus include sorbet and cheese courses. Menus change throughout the year. A flight of wines with each course is available. Cool and upscale is the inside look-light walls and a combination of steel and light wood. When a restaurant is this popular, it's almost a feeling of "be there or be square." Annoying as this may be, the food is worth the trip.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $100 - $150 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Closed, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Closed, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Closed, Christmas-Closed, Boxing Day-Open, New Years Eve-Open
BISHOP'S
2183 West 4th, Vancouver, B.C. V6K 1N7
(604) 738-2025
Hours: (Mon-Sat) 5:30 pm- 11 pm; (Sun) 5:30 pm-10 pm
Food has become such an art form that sometimes you need a break. When you're looking for a place that won't necessarily knock your socks off with innovative dishes, but will provide a solid, delectable, recognizable meal, Bishop's is your spot. It's been around for over 10 years and more often than not is voted best or most popular on somebody's list (or two). The first thing they do right is provide a wonderfully comfortable yet special atmosphere. A small tiled entryway leads to a bar that is not for sitting, just producing. To the right is the first of the small dining areas with beautifully-set tables. Just looking at the sparkling crystal, crisp white linens, and fresh flowers makes you want to sit right down. A few steps up and you're in the next cozy dining area, filled with more beautiful artwork. The second thing they do right is customer service. There's no snootiness, and you're made to feel important. They watch the details. The third, of course, is the food. The menu changes weekly to ensure the freshest of meals. A recent menu offered starters such as tea-smoked duck breast with grilled apple and arugula salad, and seared sea scallops with crisp potato galette. Entrees enticed with roasted organic chicken breast, grilled wild Northern B.C. sockeye salmon, and rack of lamb with Dijon mustard and herb crust. Two Bishop's cookbooks are popular items, and they hold cooking classes the last Wednesday of every month (except December), from 10 am to 2 pm in the restaurant dining room. The cost is $65. A wonderful meal in a comfortable yet elegant atmosphere. No wonder it's on yet another best list.
Estimated cost per person for dinner = $45 - $55 (Canadian)
Holiday Schedule: New Years Day-Closed, Valentines Day-Open, Easter-Open, Thanksgiving-Open, Christmas Eve-Closed, Christmas-Closed, Boxing Day-Closed, New Years Eve-Open
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