Paris is many things to many people. It’s the fashion capitol of the world, the City of Lights, a romantic wonder, a haven for artists, and a museum lover’s paradise. But for everyone, Paris is also a city bursting with magnificent food, from chic restaurants to ethnic dives to picturesque bistros. Here’s a small sampling of where to get a taste of Paris.
LA MACHON 16, Rue de Commines, 3rd arrondisement Metro: Filles du Calvaire 01-42-74-57-09 On a quiet side street in one of Paris’ hippest districts -- Johnny Depp and his partner Vanessa Paradis are rumored to have an apartment near by -- sits La Machon, a cozy sliver of a restaurant. Don’t let its small size fool you: La Machon is big on flavorful, creative French food. And it’s big with the locals, too, who know that the restaurant’s constantly changing menu never disappoints and its easy-on-the-wallet prices are always appreciated. If the Salers steak is listed on the chalkboard menu, get it. This French cow is prized for its tender, juicy meat. We’re big fans of the magret de canard, cooked to a perfect rosy color. For dessert, there’s always a slice of a buttery fruit tart available. Or go all out and opt for the cheese course. We love the well-chosen selection served on a wooden plank and its all-you-can-eat policy. La Machon gives back to the hood, too, serving bread from a local artistan bakery and showcasing works from neighborhood artists.
AU PETIT MARGUERY 9, Blvd. De Port Royal, 13th arrondisement Metro: Les Gobelins 01-43-31-58-59 Look in the dictionary under “classic French restaurants” and chances are you’ll see a photo of Au Petit Marguery. First, there are the well-seasoned waiters in their long white aprons and crisp black bow ties. The décor is simple yet elegant, with soft rust-colored walls and banquettes. There’s the French dame of a certain age who’s full of demands and, as if on cue, in walks a couple with their small dog in tow. Then, most importantly, there’s the food, full of French technique and ingredients. For starters, the foie gras is always a good choice, as are the shrimp-filled raviolis in lobster sauce (no these aren‘t Italian, and yes, they are delicious). Au Petit Marguery is well known for its unusual meat offerings, including young partridge, wild duck, hare, venison and rabbit. Or opt for lighter fare, including a delicate white fish cooked in paper with baby vegetables, and save room for their Grand Marnier souffle, a house specialty as big as a chef’s hat, a French one of course.
CAFÉ LE PAUL BERT 20, Rue Paul Bert, 18th arrondisement Metro: Porte de Clignancourt If you find yourself at the Marche aux Puces de St. Ouen -- and you should -- and start to get hungry -- shopping is hard work after all -- simply follow the procession of vendors and waiters going back and forth between Café le Paul Bert and the market stalls carrying trays of food. Here you’ll find a cozy bistro full of hearty fare and heartier locals. The menu offers a good selection of traditional French classics, including French onion soup, coq au vin, roasted chicken and pot au feu. There’s also a nice selection of generously sized salads (we particularly like the Paul Bert with its mixture of butter lettuce, goat cheese, chicken, corn, tomato and green beans). Another French classic, crepes, come in both sweet and savory offerings. But the biggest surprise wasn’t on the menu. The ladies restroom is a magical place, with its under the sea motif, including a beautiful wall mural full of colorful fish, octopus and seashells. It’s worth the trek up the stairs.
CHEZ OMAR 47, Rue de Bretagne, 3rd arrondisement Metro: Arts et Metiers 01-42-72-36-26 In the never-judge-a-book-by-its-cover category, we present Chez Omar. At first glance this popular, no-reservations restaurant looks like any typical Parisian café, with its deep yellow walls, brown banquettes, white tile floor and packed-like-sardines tables. But that’s where the similarities end. Chez Omar is all about Moroccan food. Cous cous, the most popular offering, comes in six varieties, including grilled lamb brochette, spicy merguez sausage, lamb shank and chicken, all served with a separate platter of vegetables in a fragrant tomato-based sauce. Can’t decide? Opt for Omar’s Cous Cous Royale, which includes a sampling of all. Portions are huge, although the beautiful Middle Eastern pastries are tempting. Come hungry and come with cash; Chez Omar doesn’t accept credit cards.
LA GRANDE EPICERIE DE PARIS AT BON MARCHE 38, Rue de Sevres, 7th arrondisement Metro: Sevres-Babylone 01-44-39-80-00 Yes, there actually is a restaurant inside this supermarket -- a chic black-and-white self-service spot serving up cooked-to-order food and composed salads with tiny bar stools that only a French butt can appreciate -- but that’s not why we come here. Rather it’s the incredible selection of food and products from all over the world that has us drooling from one end of this super-fancy store to the other. There’s the extensive selection of beautifully presented prepared foods, such as cannelloni with salmon and crab, endive gratinee, stuffed grape leaves and shrimp ravioli. Walking by the Italian and Spanish cured meat counters, we were very grateful that our vegetarian days are a thing of the past. Ditto for the pate counter and the case dedicated solely to foie gras and the accoutrements to go with it. We had a giggle when we spied the “Tex Mex” aisle, complete with tortilla chips and a burrito dinner in a box, and felt our wallets shrink when we walked by the Maxim’s and Fauchon-labeled products, including quails stuffed with foie gras and pheasant with truffles and Armagnac. Grab a perfectly made baguette, a bottle of wine, cheese, exotic fruit and whatever else catches your eye and treat yourself to a true French dining experience: a pique-nique. Don’t forget a corkscrew.
L’AS DU FALLAFEL 34, Rue de Rosiers, 4th arrondisement Metro: St. Paul 01-48-87-63-60 We love truth in advertising, but rarely does it happen. But that’s not the case at L’As du Fallafel, a tiny restaurant in the heart of the Jewish section whose window reads, “Always imitated, never equal.” And we couldn’t agree more after we bit into our falafel sandwich bursting with pickled shredded cabbage, cucumber, creamy sesame sauce, grilled eggplant and falafels, crunchy deep-fried balls of chickpeas and herbs. Sure, you can order other items at this 20-year old spot -- chicken schnitzel, borscht, shawarma -- but that’s not what we and the other 30 or so people waiting in the fast moving line were there for and the same goes for you. Come on Sunday afternoon when the area is the liveliest -- most stores are closed on Friday evening and Saturday for the Jewish Sabbath -- and bring some extra napkins. You’ll need them.
ANGELINA 226, rue de Rivoli, 1st district, Metro Tuileries (33) 01 42 60 82 00 After going to the Louve and taking a walk in one of the many beautiful gardens of Paris, Tuileries, please stop at the elegant Angelina. Also, take some pictures, because you will want to show the renaissance décor of this place to your friends and they will be a little jealous. And to build on their jealousy, mention what a delicious meal you had and for dessert, well-known specialty, a pastry with “Le chocolat Africain”. Hot chocolate that is to die for, I’m sorry, to live for. I know it’s rich, but don’t worry, gain a bit of weight; after all, Paris is a walking city. If you have to wait a little, do so! Yes, on your way out don’t forget to indulge in some chocolates, jams, candy, pastries or all of the above.
SPICY 8 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, 8th district (33) 01 56 59 62 59 Spicy is a true sensation that is fairly new for Paris, but already became popular amongst business elite and trendy folks. Cleanly modern and fashionable décor in pastel colors captivates your attention immediately. Busy for lunch, but a charming host, Oliver, will offer you to an aperitif at the tres chic bar and soon your meal will be served. And wouldn’t you want to have a recipe of every dish you try? But I’m not so sure that Herve Dos Sautos, chef at Spicy’s, will give out his secrets. I had a succulent tartare de saumon huile d’olive au citron and did not want my enjoyment to end. And then I tasted the most scrumptious entrée, pastilla de thon et son jus de viande (tuna steak, wrapped in spinach with meat juice). A glass of delicious white wine was included with my heavenly lunch as well. Set priced meals are reasonable, a la cart menu is a bit pricey, but please treat you once.
LA COUPOLE 102 Blvd. du Montparnasse, 14th district Metro Vivin (33) 01 43 20 14 20 This landmark, that’s been around since 1927, is a celebration of French history and gastronomy. Personnel are prompt and friendly with a visible pride for the magical place they work at. Don’t rush; enjoy their famous fruits des mer (chilled seafood platters). Even if you don’t like curry, you must try perfumed with exotic spices Curry D’agneau (baby lamb curry), created by Paul Debart, a chef with 30 years of experience. If you there for breakfast, you’ll be offered a plate with the freshest croissants ever, butter and jam and be sure to ask for hot chocolate. La Coupole open 7 days a week and has dancing downstairs, with salsa and disco nights (entry free for diners). I encourage you to have a rendezvous at this pure Art Deco style place.
LE PROCOPE 13 rue de L’ancienne Comedie, 6th district, Metro Odeon (33) 01.40.46.79.00 If you wish to jump into Molier’s time, go in Le Procope, the place that was opened in 1686. You can’t eat at the table where famous Molier did, but allowed to sit there, feeling the history. The oldest café offers loads of it, besides great food. And its classic dishes like seafood platters, sea beam in a flannel sauce, and coq au vin are truly succulent. Le Procope is not at all a pretentious place with an extremely efficient service. Try to stick to set menu, which is quite reasonable and definitely leave room for desserts. I won’t tell you how delicious they are. Dive into history and learn for yourself!
Dining experiences are endless, especially in such diverse city like Paris: from casual to fancy, from simple to outstanding, and usually with a long history behind. I encourage you to spoil your taste buds with these and many other fine restaurants.