Drinking Vermouth: Hold the Vodka! Hold the Gin!
There is something about a Martini - Ere the dining and dancing begin, - And to tell you the truth, It is not the vermouth - I think perhaps it's the gin. Ogden Nash, "A Drink with Something in It", 1935.
by
Patricia
Heller
Most people I know who drink martinis either wave the vermouth bottle over the glass or, at most, pour a bit of the liquid in the glass, pour it out, and fill with chilled gin or vodka, an olive or lemon twist and, voila: a martini is born. But, drink the vermouth? Well, yes. And, no.
The vermouths we are familiar with akin to the martini and some mixed drinks might be called "industrial grade". They add a touch of flavor to Rob Roys and the like, sweeten the martini and generally aren't thought of as drinks in themselves. But, as "flavored wines", better quality vermouths are pleasant aperitifs and a nice change from the usual pre-meal cocktail.
The history of vermouth, which is believed to have originated in Italy some time in the 1700s, is a bit of a mystery, but what we do know is that it was revered not only as a sweet desert wine, but also as a medicinal wine due to the presence of herbal and botanical essences used in their making. According to Robert Rogness, proprietor of Wine Expo in Santa Monica, Ca., all vermouths originally were considered digestifs and many people drank them as the answer to polluted water. It is the flavorings from "healing" aromatic herbs and other plant materials which give vermouth wines their distinctive qualities: juniper, bitter orange peel, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, wormwood, mace and marjoram are the ones most often used. Actually, the name vermouth is derived from vermut, the German word for wormwood, a bitter herb and perhaps the one most commonly used among various vermouths.
But, aside from an approximate sixteen percent alcohol (the mixing vermouths are slightly higher, at about eighteen per cent), there's nothing really "common" among brands, as the recipes for these wines are proprietary and carefully guarded. In the early years of vermouth production, the alternative to sweet, darker Italian versions were those lighter in color and lower in sugar (drier) made in the south of France. Today, both countries produce both types and they are good to have on hand, one red, one white, for sipping on the rocks, especially if you're entertaining your European friends, who drink vermouths and other flavored wines regularly.
The French wines are Appalachian Origine Controllee and carry an AOC designation-that is, the government requires each maker follow strict guidelines as to a specific area of origin, how the product is made, how much is made and how it's labeled. (That goes for foods as well.) These sipping vermouths are made in small quantities in many parts of Italy and France, but only a few are available in this country.
"Wine is an agricultural product and the quality is better when it originates in agricultural communities, such as the hundreds of villages throughout France and Italy," says Rogness. "The vermouths made here in our big market society aren't going to come close in drinking quality. They're often made by big wineries using poor wine that won't sell."
And, if you like to cook, vermouth is a terrific additive due to the "built in" herbal flavorings. You might want to try it in any recipe calling for wine, whether in a sauce or to deglaze a pan. (Rule of thumb: never cook with any wine you wouldn't drink!)
So, if you're looking for the "something" poet Nash refers to above, something a little different, keep a bottle in the freezer and drink it "neat", or pour the vermouth over ice (you may want to add a splash of soda to lighten it a bit), snip some mint from the herb garden and give the gin and vodka the day off. Better yet, hold a "tasting" party and challenge your guests to name the dominant herbs used in each one. (You can't win or lose, since nobody will really know the answer!) Either way, you will have added a delightful new drink to your repertoire.
(Note: Standard vermouths, such as Cinzano and Martini & Rossi, both Italian made and used for mixed drinks are available for about $6 per 750 ml. Drinkable vermouths, such as those made by Dolin from Chambery in France, and Noilly Prat sell at about $7 and Apperitivo Cocchi Americano, made in Italy, generally sells around $14. Availability will vary depending on your location and we recommend you consult your local fine wine proprietor to give these and others a try.)
Drinking Vermouth: Hold the Vodka! Hold the Gin!